Flame shoes, Public transit Thai-style, Big. Golden. Reclining. Buddha., the Bobae Pier, Life under the Overpass, and Thai massage.

Three more days, and there’s no end to discoveries made in Bangkok. It’s a city of wildly varying socio-economic circumstances, and the spectrum of choice is mind-boggling—where to walk, what to eat, what to wear, what to see, where to live. People’s lives unfold in an array of simple wooden structures with a few sheets of tin to keep rain out, to ultra modern homes sparing no expense. Almost everyone wears flip flops—likely because footwear is customarily removed when entering homes or even businesses. Flip flops can be found for as little as $2, or you can head to the MBK mall and blow $100 for a flashy pair. Or, you can pickup a real practical pair of funky designer shoes with 4” heels and appear to be shooting flames out the back! There are styles and price tags to remind you that Bangkok is a world class city.

Bangkok is a labyrinth of waterways. Rivers weave around historic ancient structures, and narrow canals transport citizens to and fro. Hop on, hop off, and you’ll make your way across parts of the city faster than any other transportation method. We noticed a long boat pull up at a pier, and a bunch of locals casually hopped on board. Nearby a larger boat sported English words “200 baht! Hop on Hop off, all day pass!” Same canal, same stops. So what’s the difference? Turns out, not much. We watched. We studied. No locals hopping on that boat. So, our observational powers led us to conclude that the bigger one was designed for farangs with the moolah. (Farangs are foreigners). Well! We made like locals and hopped on the “real” public transit, paid 9 (not 200) baht and made our way happily. Cruising down the canal we grinned big silly smiles, enjoying the economical commute.

Randy’s son flew in from Kyoto for our final few days. We decided on a “tourist” day, seeing The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the Reclining Buddha. We expected Reclining Buddha to be big, but it’s enormity was astounding and like witnessing the Grand Canyon, it can’t really be captured in a single camera lens. You need to be there in person—standing in front, moving down it’s length and changing viewpoints taking mental snapshots to stitch together in your minds eye to see it in its entirety. There’s a lot of gold happening inside the building housing that reclining Buddha! Pretty sure we’ll never see that much gold on anything that size ever again! Did we mention it was BIG?!

The Bobae Market is for wholesale (and retail) clothing. Like other markets, stalls are cramped and squished into a tightly packed neighbourhood of merchants selling copious quantities of shirts, skirts, shorts, bras, underwear, dresses, etc. Proprietors are buried knee deep in inventory, counting, sorting, and arranging. Despite being a wholesale market, there’s also a tourist component, and you can buy individual items from the mind-boggling selection. Room to manoeuvre inside the maze is limited at best, and it’s hot sticky and steamy but motorcycles still zip down passageways dropping off massive bundles of clothing here and there and places in between.

After Bobae we canal-boated our way two stops back to our home base pier. A few steps away is a concrete overpass of the busy street above. Even there, under that grey dark overpass, even there families are living lives—doing laundry, repairing motorbikes, sleeping, reading, chopping fresh fruit and veggies. Even there where the sun can’t even shine, you can get a plate of homemade food served fresh and delicious by happy smiling Thais! There’s vibrant life everywhere in the city.

The morning of our departure came. We were a little sad to load the bikes into the airport transfer vehicle, our journey officially ending. Ironically it rained all of the way to the airport and all morning while we waited for our flight. On the runway we looked outside the little airplane porthole then at each other. We smiled big Thai smiles at each other, knowing that we have lucked out immensely these past six weeks. We had six glorious weeks of sunshine, raining only as we are leaving. It seems a fitting conclusion!

GPS abandonment, the $4 haircut and the $40 omelet, the alleyway discoveries—There’s no place like Bangkok!

Our day started with a little shortie bike ride to drop off bikes at Velo Thailand, a hidden gem of a bike shop with a couple of fantastic guys who will clean up our bikes all sparkly then squish them into boxes in preparation for the flight home. Our short little three kilometre trip stretched into 6k as we discovered that the surrounding buildings make the GPS go all birdbrain on us. Stay in school, learn to read a map, kids!—It’s a skill that comes in handy when your GPS lets you down.

After gleefully handing off bikes we found ourselves bike-less, accompanied by a strange but liberated feeling of loss. We could go in and out of any store we wished without standing on guard with our bikes outside! We were mobile in the City! And that led to a haircut….

Randy’s haircut! Without bikes, and with our newfound spontaneity we hung a quick right into the nearby barber shop—very much a man’s-domain! Randy got a great hair cut, his face spritzed & dried, and a mini shoulder and neck massage all for the big price of $4.

After the $4 haircut we sipped ice-cold strawberry smoothies and struck up conversation with Dhanube, a young local man who kindly showed us on the map where we could find a particular restaurant. Not just any restaurant, but the one with the famous crab omelette made by none other than Michelin Star street-food chef Jay Fai. We’re not talking about your typical dollar-omelette, but a big, feasty, juicy, sweet crabby one with a big juicy price tag of about $40. If you are unfamiliar with Jay Fai, do google her, she has a fascinating story! Given the tourist shortage we were able to score an omelette every bit as delicious as they all say! Not only did we score the omelette, but we were seated in the best spot in the restaurant to watch her in action the whole time. We should mention that her restaurant does not resembles the hoity toity style one might expect. Menus are still old faded color photocopies held together by plastic sheet protectors, and its open-air street-food dining atmosphere is unspoiled. She herself still cooks every single dish over hot charcoal woks. One could ponder the irony of a $4 haircut and a $40 omelette, the cost of which in Canada would be reversed.

There are alleyways, lanes, and narrow rivers, all crammed with Shophouses, which in turn are crammed with product waiting to be discovered at every turn. We just hang a left here, turn right there and everywhere you look, you can’t stop gawking. So much to discover, and best captured with pictures rather than words.

After we exhausted ourselves with walking in the scorching heat we negotiated a tuk tuk ride to the hotel. Not knowing if the driver even understood where we wanted to go, we agreed on a price and off we went. Nevermind that he stopped halfway, sought directions from another tuk tuk driver, then offered a cold glass of water to yet another. Who even cares where we are going?? We’re going on a tuk tuk ride and it’s gonna be a blast!

 

A mix of traditional next to modern, the market rat, riding into Bangkok

We took the day off in Siracha thinking we would luxuriate in the pool that we just had to have, but alas there was too much to see that we didn’t swim after all. Instead we nabbed a tuk tuk ride and asked to be dropped off at “The Market”. There’s always a nearby market somewhere, and the bigger the city the bigger the market. You, and twenty of your closest friends could get hopelessly swallowed up and lost at the Muang Si Racha Food Market. Mountains of fresh chicken feet, crabs, pickled this and that, salted fish, fresh flowers, kitchen wares, plastic baskets, you name it. It’s all there. Not unlike any other market it was hot and steamy inside and buzzing with activity. Tiny narrow roads of vendors all squeezed in tightly, not an inch to spare. Your mind cannot help but imagine how rodents and insects wouldn’t be occupying the same space. As we were exiting the market Randy glanced down a row and saw a rat. Not just any rat, but a really big well-fed ratty rat, as big as a house cat. We muse—surely there are far more living in the nooks and crannies. We try not to think about it too long…

We wandered down to the pier, dodging sunshine whenever possible since it was 37C and you become uncomfortably hot just thinking. We were struck by how many traditional wooden structures on stilts are home to whole communities of Thai people who live their lives in and around the water. These are not developed waterfront luxury homes. They are no-frills, functional homes that inspires one to wonder about the lives being lived within their walls. We stood at one point contemplating the strange juxtaposition of the modern high rising providing a backdrop to the scene.

Riding into Bangkok (Part 1)

Understanding that navigating Bangkok traffic was going to be insane we wisely decided to divvy up the distance and cover it in two days. The first day we went from Siracha to just south of the Suvarnabhumi airport—No problem! In fact, we quite enjoyed the portion between Siracha and Chonburi where quaint little villages and quiet roads made for pleasant riding. None of our mapping/navigation tools would allow using the causeway over the water that we saw. Overriding the navigation we took what became the highlight of our ride, breezing alongside the water looking at the fishing communities at the edge of Chonburi on the right and expanses of muddy shallow low-tide remains on the left with occasional stilted homes out in the middle of it all. Happiness prevailed! Our destination was near the airport where we could decide to conclude our journey and take into the city if we wished. But very near Bangkok isn’t near enough for us. We came to cycle into Bangkok, not almost cycle into Bangkok. So we checked into the Blue Sky resort (much better than the Blue Moon on Ko Samet). Gorgeous saltwater pool with water so warm we couldn’t seem to extricate ourselves from it. Laying in the water staring at the moon and stars we pondered what the following day might bring, with about 40km to bring us into the heart of Bangkok.

Riding into Bangkok (Part 2)

Maps ready, bikes loaded, we gulped. The unimaginable five weeks was now reality. So, you ask…how was cycling in Bangkok?

O.M.G. It’s intense. It’s utterly exhilarating. It’s loud—We are not risk takers or thrill seekers but we gotta admit….it was thrilling! Our minds had conjured up all sorts of intimidating imagery. However, our five weeks and 1600 kilometres served to assure us—we can do it! There were moments where we had to assert ourselves confidently (but not aggressively) on 8 lane roads, negotiate and share road space with heavy clickety-clanking transports and squeeze into some really tight road spaces—and, we must admit, a few times we had to rip a few power moves. There were necessary (and legal) U-turns that required burning across 5 lanes of traffic and—but we made sure we were visible and predictable at all times. Drivers here are very considerate. Not even once did we experience a car honk or raging driver. Every road user inherently knows the roads are shared with others. There’s a traffic groove, and when you find it you just go with the flow.

Checked into our hotel, we stood on the balcony of our 20th floor hotel room that overlooked the city, and agreed “Holy cow, if any of our kids were to say they plan to cycle into Bangkok we’d never allow it and we’d lock them in their rooms”. Then we just grinned—big naughty grins. Sssshh….don’t tell anyone what we just did!

The Blue Moon, gigantic bugs, rubber trees and pineapple, and urban riding.

We decided that loafing on the beach was too darn lazy for us but we weren’t quite finished with the island experience. We loaded the bikes and went just 3.6km down the road to Ko Samet Village right at the Port where we checked into the Blue Moon resort. Apparently all the action happens there on that beach and in that village. It was busy, rowdy, a little seedy, and had a Clifton Hill feel to it. Except that you can get a Thai massage for about $8, (no, we didn’t). Somehow pedestrians, motorcycles, dogs, food carts, and Canadian cycle tourists share the busy street that’s barely wide enough for anything but foot traffic. We weren’t sure what to expect at the Blue Moon….nice and clean, tucked away behind all the action. Fortunately it was quiet enough. (Nevermind that one of the two beds seemed collapsible when sat upon….) Randy made friends with the Russian gamblers staying in the room beside ours. In the morning we looked at each other and we knew we were finished with the Island and ready to move on.

We hopped on the old rickety-looking ferry with just 4 other people and made the hour long trip across the water toward the mainland and what would be the continuation of our journey to somewhere. Primarily empty, we wondered how long these tourism driven businesses can sustain the current tourist shortage.

Generally speaking, we actually see very few insects here. At night when the lights are on we expect to see spiders and other creepy crawlers but they remain hidden. Nothing noticeably flying or crawling or slithering….until yesterday morning when we found a beetle in the steps to our room. We’re not talking about a cute little round thingy….it was a big giant menacing looking black thingy that I’m sure was planning to scare the pants off me, till he fell on his backside and couldn’t right himself. Randy happily re-located him, upright in the garden. With the sun & the warmth here making all things tropical grow like crazy I suppose it’s reasonable to assume the bugs are big too.

We checked into the Ban Chang Palace last night, mostly because there was a pool and pool is just as exciting to us as ice water, strawberry smoothies, and shade. From what we could see, there were about 5 floors of rooms. We could only see lights on in about 6 of them. Nobody at the pool, and nobody in the restaurant. Ad usual, we felt like we had the whole place to ourselves (again).

Today we found ourselves on some beautiful agricultural roads that were lined with mango trees, rubber trees (we think….based on the taps that were visible) and a variety of other orchards. It occurred to us that we have seen pineapples at local markets but hadn’t actually seen any crops growing them. Really, neither of us could even describe how a pineapple even grows. Suddenly we pass fields of a new crop we hadn’t noticed previously and it’s pineapple! Intrigued and surprised, we somehow anticipated them growing on trees.

Each day brings us closer to Bangkok. Orchards began to give way to a more urban feel and we cycled by massive industrial developments. Big trucks hauling goods dominated the roads but we still had our little place on the road next to them, despite the highway where we counted 4-6 lanes in each direction. Despite all the traffic, we are not the only users who need road space and all the bigger vehicles know it. Scooters with Mom, Child and Baby need space, as does the Old Man on the slow moving bicycle, and the Family of 5 making their way on a motorcycle/sidecar arrangement. It’s the presence of all these other road users that makes it safer for us. We are entitled to road space. Thai people know it and respect it. Will this congeniality continue as we cycle deep into Bangkok? It remains to be seen….

Floating in the ocean till our skin turns pruney, sand bubblers, turds on the beach, and the wavy dock. The bikes haven’t moved—we are enjoying island life!

The gloriously warm ocean waves, the powdery white sand, the oceanfront dining—it’s pretty hard to resist! We parked our bikes and they haven’t moved in two days. We are in full-on appreciation for the opportunity to plant ourselves in a patch of shade and stay out of the sun. We make full use of the ocean in front of us, to float and frolick till our skin turns pruney. Then we rest on our loungers till we’re dry, then do it all again!

We just runaround barefoot on beautiful soft sand that extends all the way into the water. No rocks, broken shells, or the like to require the wearing of water shoes. The water is so warm there’s absolutely no acclimatization required.

You’d think that a beautiful Island resort area would be crawling with beach vendors, gift shops and cheesy entertainment, but there’s none of that. In fact, it’s refreshingly devoid of all that touristy biz. The whole thing feels natural and laid back. And that works for us. There’s no music blasting and we are free to lay on the beach listening only to sounds of waves and cicadas. Lots of cicadas.

At low tide the only critters to be found on the beach are the sand bubblers that create little balls of beach sand all around their crab homes which are nothing more than simple holes in the white sand. When we walk nearby they sense our approach and with those teeny tiny legs they turbo-run like heck and retreat into their holes.

There’s nobody trying to sell us the typical beach souvenirs we had almost expected. One vendor had delicious packages of fresh cut pineapple, mangos and papaya, and another was offering beautifully coloured sarongs for reasonable prices which actually have utilitarian uses for physically covering up to prevent sunburn. At one point we were laying there, eyes closed, and the familiar scent of BBQ drifts into our proximity. There’s a lady who is quite literally a walking BBQ, with a rod balanced across her shoulders carrying drinks and condiments on one side and an actively burning BBQ with delicious smelling things on the other.

At night we sit down near the shoreline under a tree. Not just any tree, but one that drops these things from high above that look like turds. Of course we noticed those turd-like objects and initially our minds didn’t welcome them (there are dogs everywhere…if you recall). But then we became curious and investigated. Turns out those oblong roundish structures are tamarind, and an important ingredient in Pad Thai. We feel much better knowing that it’s a Pad Thai tree dropping those things.

The method by which most guests arrive at this little cove is by boat. It’s also the same way goods and supplies are delivered. Several times daily a small ferry boat pulls up to this floating dock that is a confusing blend of an ingenious design and a carnival experience where skills of balance and agility are tested. Passengers disembark with suitcases and children in tow, then they must walk the length of this floating dock as it rises and falls and sways with the crashing waves. Welcome to Ao Vongduean (Vongduean Beach). We watch, amused by the newly arrived as they try to make their way to shore. Once they step foot on the sand they tend to appear happy to be here! And we are supremely happy to be here! We love the island of Ko Samet.

It’s feeling coastal and tropical now! Swimming & seafood!

The heat was very intense yesterday and today. So hot that the moment we stop pedalling we drip sweat. It’s quite embarrassing really, standing in Amazon Cafe waiting for Strawberry Cheesecake Smoothies along with the others who look all cool and smartly dressed while we make puddles on the floor. Nevermind that…

The coast is different from other parts. That’s the thing when you ride your bike across a whole country…you become very aware of subtle regional differences as they slowly transform. Along the coastal roads we now see mangroves and little villages tucked among them. Fishing boats are colourfully dotting rivers and other waterways, wooden homes are built up high on stilts in the water. Fish markets are everywhere, and it’s a seafood lovers dream. Jumbo Prawns (like 8”!), crabs of various colours, squiggly squid, big round glittery fish, long skinny silvery ones, and they are fresh! In the beachside town of Laem Mae Phim Beach where we stayed last night the seafood restaurants are literally side by side, lining the whole street along the beach. There are big tanks of live seafood in front of them. You just wander up and down the street perusing the restaurants, point to any live seafood that catches your eye and it will be cooked fresh for you on the spot.

The greenery at the side of the road looks jungle-like as we hug the coastline. The trees are tall, the twisty vines wrap around and overtake everything, and there are tropical sounds emanating from deep within. We hear new bird sounds down here, audible but not visible.

Most of yesterday’s route was along the “Scenic Route” which is a marked cycling trail that provided a cycling lane for maybe 50km. Financial prosperity seems apparent along the coastline—there were plenty of gorgeous homes to be seen. Refreshingly, they were not overtaking the authentic Thai feel of the villages and towns that we’ve come to love.

 

Last night we engaged in conversation with a Swedish man who has been living and working in Thailand for 30 years. We asked him one of the burning questions that’s been on our minds. How do locals deal with dogs? Well, he had a solution. A taser! A small portable pocket taser! We want one of those! Apparently they work. (I wish we had one weeks ago) Just the sound alone sends the dogs away. Not sure if it’s a universally accepted solution, but we’re open minded here!

We saw what must have been the biggest banyan tree ever! They are already big and majestic with uniquely ornate twisting roots. But the one at Kung Wiman in Ban Nong Nam Khao Beach was something else. Banyan trees are visually spectacular and are common here. As they grow they shape themselves into inseparable, interwoven trunks and branches, twisting and coiling around each other and things around them.

Today we took a ferry the the island of Ko Samet. It’s an open-air wooden vessel that certainly would not meet any version of Canadian safety standards but it was a great ride. To board we just stepped across the 3ft gap between the dock and the boat hoping we wouldn’t fall in, and the workers managed to slide our bikes onboard and wedged them up against the seats. As we approached the vessel to board, a whole bunch of passengers had these incredulous looks of “holy cow, you guys are coming on the boat with those? Where are you coming from? Where are you going? Omg!” Needless to say there was some lively conversation on the hour long trip over to the island.

What can we say about Ko Samet? There are resorts, plenty of them, but they don’t have that “resorty” feel. They are harmoniously and naturally sharing the environment with Thai citizens living their traditional lives. And there’s the ocean!! Glorious, blue-green warm salt water. A sandy beach that you can walk into barefoot and the water is so warm you can just float around all day long and never want to get out.

We will float on the ocean and relax like lazy bums for three whole days. Life is good.