Deserted beaches, and massages on the coast

Route: Hua Hin to Prachuap Khiri Khan
Distance: 133km
Daytime high: 40ish C

We left Hua Hin not knowing how far we might go. Turns out when there’s a tailwind and the scenery is ever-changing gorgeous, we go 133km! Deana’s bike computer registered 40+C but the breeze helped. So did gallons of water and some Coca Cola.

The most popular word today was Woww!!! After blasting out of Hua Hin we couldn’t believe how little traffic there was. In fact, many times it felt like we were in a post-apocalyptic world with no tourists and very few cars. Resort after resort, empty. Beaches were deserted for miles and miles. Restaurants and cafe’s open with workers lingering about hoping to fill empty seats. Much of the time we had the entire road to ourselves. COVID appears to have decimated the tourism industry from our observations.

We passed mountains in epic landscapes, lush green palm forests, unique rocky formations and and pineapple crops. Out in the middle of nowhere we passed a monkey on the road—just waiting for nothing. Of all the areas we have seen in Thailand, this is the most beautiful so far! At the entranceway to a national park we saw an official worker who seemed to be asking something of us. We thought maybe he wanted to see our passports. We asked him to repeat a few times. That sweet man was asking for was permission to take a selfie picture with us! It never ceases to amaze us how the Thais want pictures with us as much as we want pictures with them.

We arrived in Prachuap Khiri Khan. It has a much different vibe than Hua Hin, and more to our liking. We set out to find a lovely little sit-down ocean-front restaurant. We couldn’t resist the Night Market with its street food offerings (which, by the way are always a food grazing extravaganza). By the time we’d reached the other side we’d already nibbled our way to appetite satiation and abandoned the restaurant plan.

Along the sidewalk was a row of chairs all set up for passersby looking for massages. After the big long day we just had, we figured we deserved one. Leg massages, neck & shoulders—we are so in! We planted our smoothie-sipping sore-legged butts down at the waterfront massage service. These massages aren’t piddly little wimpy ones. They are deep-down find your sore spots heavy workout type! One full hour, 30 minutes each leg. A nearby worker noticed a mosquito on my leg (I hadn’t noticed!) and she leaped into action spraying each of our precious legs with some pleasant-smelling repellent. They are such sweet people! The total cost was $4 each for the full hour. $4!!

We have reached our originally planned southern-most destination but have time to spare! So, we will add more distance and venture beyond. We are always wanting to see what lays just beyond the next bend in the road. Such is the nature of bicycle touring.

Posted in Thailand 2023, Uncategorized.


  1. the massage must have been MAGIC after all your biking. Loved the little person asleep on the pavement….such a different life they live.

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