Mae Tha to Lampang

Here is the link to our route map on Strava.

Not all hills are created equal. And what’s with those dogs?

We plotted a map today and the elevation chart looked flat-ish with a few bumps. Well, those bumps were mountains and the grades were mostly around 15-17% with crazy switchbacks. Unfit for any type of cycling really, never mind pushing fully loaded touring bikes up them in +30c temperatures. Ironically, it appears that there must have been a sale on “8% grade” signs because every single sign said 8%. We can attest to the fact they were much, much steeper.

We pushed those bikes. Hard. Darn near killed us. Heart rates pounding in the heat….often just 20ft at a time, sometimes 10. We’d have to stand still, squeezing those brakes hard just to prevent rolling backwards. It was hard to really enjoy the surrounding jungle-ish scenery which was actually quite spectacular. At one point we heard loud rustling in the dense brush and the only wildlife we can think of is wild boars, which are apparently plentiful here. Khun Tan National Park. Beautiful, but not recommended to cycle through it! Demoralizing. However….there were birds chirping all the way!

When the mountain passes ended and we were depleted and worn , we hoped for some easier riding. Not so. There’s only one road out, and there were dogs. Not pet dogs. We’re talking feral dogs in packs of five or six. Ratty looking mangy things who come out of the ditches to bare teeth at us, bark nastily and threaten to give us heart attacks. (Which makes me grateful we got rabies shots before coming here). Every homestead for about 20kms seemed to have multiple unrestrained unfriendly dogs waiting to take a piece of us. All said, we probably had about 30-40 dogs come at us overall. Relentless.

Ok, so it wasn’t all bad today. The last 5km was ok (despite the “road” being more like dusty dirty single-track). There were fresh green rice paddies to be seen. We rolled into a resort around 5pm and it was stunning! Gorgeous! Pool, restaurant, tropical plants & trees, waterfall ponds, and it felt like paradise. We are at a place called Lampang River Lodge. Highly recommend it! Most expensive place so far at $47. (Thinking it would be $300+ a night in Canada). Too bad we are so exhausted….we flopped into bed around 8pm.

The start of what became a big mountain pass with switchbacks. 8% grade….that’s what all the signs say. It’s not true!

Randy resorted to pushing mode….the grade was ridiculous!

Almost at the top. We could only go 25 ft and had to keep stopping for breaks the whole way.

Coffee at the top of the mountain.

Lampang River Lodge!

The food is always rewarding.

Posted in Thailand 2020, Uncategorized.


  1. Quite spectacular scenery (rice paddies, architecture) but you guys are sure pushing yourselves. Do take time to rest … don’t want exhaustion to set in. Stay safe!

  2. I remember the dogs but they didn’t bother us since we were in a car. In Vietnam you could buy roasted dog quarters at the market…perhaps that could be a solution?
    OK so now I’n no longer envious…thanks😏

  3. Glad that you had a happy ending after a very challenging day. And another nice meal too! It doesn’t look like food will be a problem on this trip.

  4. You didn’t stop to take pictures of the dogs??? I’d have rented a car by now, you guys are brave souls.

  5. I had neglected to tell you that one of my Cobourg condo neighbours has a daughter who lives in Chiang Mai and manages an animal rescue centre there. Should you be back in that neighbourhood her name is Ann Gough and her mobile number is (011) from Canada I guess but 66908896908. She and her husband have lived there since before we moved to Cobourg 15 years ago so may well have some good advice…especially about dogs maybe?

  6. I hope you were at least riding when the dogs appeared and not on a steep hill pushing your bike, so you could get away quickly. The twisty switchbacks look lovely! Cute little lizard. 🦎
    Love reading your posts! Continue to have fun and stay safe.

    • It was after we’d crossed the mountain, when our legs were still quivering and every muscle screaming at us. We actually had to dismount our bikes a few times cuz the dogs surrounded us!

  7. Glad there was a happy ending that included some yummy food….what an adventure!! You are brave as the dog thing would have freaked me out! Keep safe and enjoy ! 😊

    • Oh, we weren’t that brave! Those dogs had me freaked out to the point that I was experiencing PTSD for the rest of the day!

  8. Wow!! Sounds like a crazy day!! Are you planning to stay in paradise a few days before setting out on your next adventure?? The photos look beautiful!!❤️

    • We rolled out and are hoping for a 90km day. But there’s a mountain in there today, so who knows.

Comments are closed.